From small, curated capsules to expansive collections, Japan-based Sillage has quickly become nothing less than full-fledged. Designer Nicolas Chalmeau - who is better recognized by his online handle and Thai name Yuthanan - was quickly swept by the tides ever since his very first release: a pair of wide-cut trousers that started strong an oversized aesthetic that informs his label to this day.
Prior to the beginning of Sillage, however, Yuthanan was but a young hopeful touching down at Narita Airport for the very first time.
He studied fashion, lived and worked in Paris, where he spent much of his life, and left to make Tokyo his new home. From selling sneakers out of his collection to make rent to shooting and buying for the culturally significant imprint 1LDK, the early days of his newfound career helped launch what is now his magnum opus.
And while he still knows his way around the camera - often taking creative control of not only commissioned editorials but also his own - his designs as well as his personal style are poised to become his most intimate mark on the world.
Yuthanan sat down with us to talk about the early days of his burgeoning career, the process behind his collections, and where he sees Sillage going in the future.
For the uninformed, could you quickly introduce yourself?
I’m Yuthanan - which is my second name, my Thai name. Nicolas is my French one. I’ve lived in Japan for 2 and a half years now: half of my time I’m a freelance photographer - creating content for magazines, brands, and stores, but the other half I spend as a designer for my own label Sillage. I’ve been working in fashion since my first job; been through a lot of experiences in this field as a shopkeeper, manager, salesman, buyer, and recently a photographer and designer.
Prior to starting Sillage and moving to Japan, where were you at and what were you doing?
I worked in Paris at several shops in both streetwear and luxury, [and] trying both sides helped me figure out what I like which is something in between. I then worked for a few years in sales for some Japanese labels in Paris, which helped me make some important connections even before I came to the country. Back then, Instagram was also a big part of my daily life - sharing the things I liked with people was always enjoyable. Then in 2014, I started using the app as a tool to promote my work, style, and sneakers, though with a much smaller audience than I have now. I still never gave up on updating my feed (laughs).
What incited you to pack your bags and book a one-way ticket to Tokyo?
In my opinion, life is about challenging yourself and I had the opportunity to discover something new. Japan has this general peaceful ambiance that I like and Tokyo has that special something I can’t really explain - but it gave me power, enough to tell myself that I should try living there. It was an unknown world for me as I only ever knew the culture through what I was taught in Europe.
So as soon as you land, what are your first thoughts? How was it adjusting to Japan?
I was so ready to start my new life and I already felt like I was home. In my head, Tokyo was my new hometown even before I left France. It was still a big culture shock, though. You have to love Japan to live in Japan. When you arrive and you’re all by yourself, you’ll spend a lot of time alone. You might miss your friends and family. But still, Tokyo gave me power and helped me stay positive and dream of success; I was becoming stronger and stronger every day. After that, I’d say the most difficult part is the language barrier and the paperwork, a long process but definitely not impossible.
In terms of your work experience, how did you end up joining 1LDK?
I was a frequent customer of 1LDK in Paris and I asked the manager one day if he could connect me to some friends in Japan. I went on my first trip in 2015 soon after and he introduced me to someone he knew at 1LDK in Nakameguro. We became instant friends, and three years later, he hired me and put me in charge of international relations, creative, photography, and buying.
After, you quickly transitioned into some freelance work. What are some of the most exciting projects you were able to take part in?
My most memorable shoot was for Bape: they had a collaboration with F1 at the time and invited me to Suzuka Circuit. I had full access and it was amazing to get close to the drivers and the cars. It was a one-of-a-kind experience and I’m glad I was able to be a part of it. After that, I had a lot of other memorable shoots. For example, the New Balance UK 2020 campaign, the Dior FW19 show with that impressive Sorayama statue, and shooting a Mercedes Benz electric prototype for Highsnobiety. You can see all of my best work on my website.
At what point did you know you wanted to start your own label?
When I realized that my community on Instagram was getting more and more involved. I was receiving a lot of messages asking me to create something other than pictures. Also, as a big guy living in Asia, it’s impossible to find oversized clothes; the biggest sizes available are still too small for me. I wanted to create a label that can fit me and people with my dimensions. My business partner Masa, who I met when I first arrived in Japan, pushed me to start [Sillage] and helped me [since] the beginning.
You just quickly mentioned your partner Masa - what role does he play for Sillage?
Masa is the guy behind the scenes of the brand. He’s in charge of production, marketing, and he also helps me with designs. On the side, he works as a freelance manufacturer for a few fashion labels here in Japan.
Also, how did you decide on the name?
I had Sillage in mind for a while, way before I created the label. I like the meaning of the word in French. Its English equivalent is something close to “wake.” Please Google it - It’s too difficult to explain in English (laughs).
From choosing a producer to picking materials, and perfecting the cut - what were some of the obstacles you faced before your first drop?
I knew exactly what I wanted, so there were actually no obstacles. Japan is very professional; you don’t have to say much after receiving your first sample. Also, the fabric selection here is amazing.
Were you nervous to share your creations with the world?
I was very excited actually. It was like a gift that I was giving to my community. They were waiting for it and the reaction was great. I remember launching Sillage’s first pants while having a burger (laughs). It was in July of 2018.
Oversized has easily become your signature. What inspired you to foundationally build your designs on that aesthetic?
I like being comfortable in my clothes, and feeling tight in your pants just isn’t comfortable for me. I’ve also always been on the lookout for super wide pants, but I couldn’t find my size. Never. Most people’s idea of wide fit was just normal on me, so I wanted to make pieces that I could wear and couldn’t find anywhere else. Aside from that, the big point of the loose and oversized aesthetic is a connection to urban, hip-hop influences. The universe of street culture is very interesting to me - that’s why I named one of our best-selling pants the “Baggy Trousers.” I want people to wear Sillage loose. I don’t hesitate to ask customers to lower their pants when I meet them. I also want to force people to wear oversized [clothes]; give them no choice but to just wear the size I recommend.
You’re constantly expanding your product breadth. What was it like transitioning from trousers to outerwear, shirting, accessories, etc.?
Sillage’s best sellers are pants - it’s definitely our strength. But honestly, wide pants match so well with wide tops, so it was a natural step forward. Wearing big clothes is addictive. I don’t remember the last time I wore fitted garments. Oversized isn’t about just making it big; we are also doing a lot of real research in pattern making and how to make the perfect silhouette. It’s not that easy as it is to make fitted clothes.
To be honest, designing and thinking about something new is fun, you know? We are a small brand - only 2 people - and we can create whatever we want. It just depends on our mood and inspirations at the moment. Sometimes, I suddenly have an idea and a few weeks later it’s online and almost sold out, that’s the best part: to see people’s reaction and excitement after launching something new.
And what goes into the design process for a full collection?
The design process is quite quick. We know what we want and that, most of the time, is something new, something people have never seen before. This Summer, we are going very deep with this mindset. Innovation is our goal and the fact that we don’t have any retailers or physical stores means we have no pressure of selling to shops. We don’t have to seduce buyers, we seduce our followers. We know they like to cultivate differences and that they also want to differentiate themselves from society.
Styling these pieces is undoubtedly just as difficult. What goes into your head when you’re arranging looks?
Same as the rest of the process: a lot of improvisation. It’s about feelings. We don’t think there is a perfect way of doing things; we are just doing it our way. Creating the looks comes quickly after that as our garments are designed to be worn together.
Collaborations also play a big role in Sillage. What has it been like working with these partners?
We usually collaborate with local brands. Promoting small businesses is a good way to differentiate yourself from other labels. Also working with these smaller brands and shops is a nice thing, and sometimes can lead you to even bigger projects. Generally, a lot of these partners are local to where we have our pop-ups.
We also like to work with a lot of artists to design logos for example. We create a new logo at least four times a year and display it on our webstore. That’s how we continuously create a new atmosphere around Sillage.
I know you love sneakers. Do you see Sillage coming up on a sneaker collaboration?
I’ve seen Sillage and some shoe brands collaborate in my dreams, but it’s not what I want anymore. I’ve discovered that our community is really supportive of the brand itself, and we want to keep building that loyalty rather than pursue collaborative products.
You almost exclusively operate on a small scale when it comes to releases - e.g. pop-ups or online drops. Do you see Sillage at a stockist like Dover Street Market or BEAMS?
Getting bigger might not be the best way to keep Sillage exclusive and special. It’s still kind of a hobby for us, and we’re having a lot of fun traveling for the brand, having pop-ups throughout Asia, and meeting the people who support us face-to-face. If we get bigger, this kind of interaction won’t happen anymore. We are careful about how we control our brand image, too. We had a lot of offers from shops across the world, but we had to decline because it’s not our plan, though I really appreciate the interest we’ve been getting.
Where do you see the label going in the next few years then?
Sillage is really a day-by-day brand, doing just what we like, following our own trends and fashion opinions. If people keep supporting us, the brand might stay alive for years!
From the beginning to now, what has been the biggest takeaway for you?
I can make it one word: perseverance.